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When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.